Hi Andreas! Thanks for sharing this video! I had exactly the same problems with my Bosch GTS 10 XC saw when I build my crosscut sled. I had the feeling that the grooves in the table had not the same width in the frond and back. I ended up with the same result! Don't forget that this is a jobsite saw and this saws will never be so precise as professionel cabinet saws. I know you want to have it 100% but from my experience this is not possible. We are Germans and we always want it 110%! :-)
Thanks for your feedback, Holger. That’s good to hear. Because I tested and tested and thought I must be too dumb to do it. I also thought that the groove on the built-in sled might be the problem because that sled has a little bit of play as well so my self-made sled also has some play. Anyway, for most tasks the grade of precision is fine.
Thank you for being honest in your post project learning segment to explain the time spent to square up your table saw sled to your high German standards. As well. The safety block is not something we should overlook.
Thanks for your feedback. I think it is important not to create false expectations for people who want to build one for themselves. However, it later turned out that the sled was quite square but that the combination square I used to check was off (see update in the video description).
I found it easier when I made mine to use only the one deep rebate on the saw table, as the other not so deep, on the sliding table, the table needs needs periodic adjustments for the sideways movement. Additionally I got the ‘critical, fence 100 percent with a roofing square. I did a rebate in the sled underneath to hold the runner in place. With a shallower depth to allow it not to plough up sawdust. When I fixed the final critical fence with the roofing square, I used glue to hold the fence in position with my jointing plane on top, keeping the square in place the glue up was all done on the saw table to avoid movement. Overall a good video, especially the block on the back to contain the spinning saw blade.
Thank you Andreas for this very well explained fabrication of a coss cut sled. I have in my home workshop this exact same Bosch table saw and it definitely needs something which is a bit smoother to slide than the existing original arrangement.
Your video style with "What I Learnt" is a model for every other channel! I also lubricate the table itself and find that gets more sticky because of resting stuff on the saw top than the sled itself. Good job, Andreas!
Thanks Richard, I’m glad you like it. To me, learning and improving (via RUclips, among other things) is such an important aspect of woodworking and the online woodworking community that I want to highlight it. I also want to show to my students (some of whom also watch my videos) that their teacher is also a learner and that they can use online media to learn stuff they can’t do yet. About the lubricant: I don’t have any long-term experience yet, obviously. I always clean the table of the saw before putting the sled on but I'll have to see if this getting sticky becomes an issue. Thanks for watching and for your comment, Richard!
I used a product called “Silbergleit” which is from a German manufacturer. I don’t knoe what it is, it is indeed of a silvery colour and has the texture of a thick paste.
Excellent video - I have the same saw for about 9 years now and made crosscut sled for it early on and it has been very useful. I now need to make a small sled with the capacity to make accurate cuts. As a result I will be using a lot of your tips in the construction of this new sled. Thank you very much for all the information you provided. Dayle.
Hi Andreas, a cool and educational video. Because I'm a real beginner and have a lot to learn, I have a lot of benefit from your lessons. Had I ever had such a teacher at school ...
Thanks for your wonderful feedback - it’s replies like yours that keep motivation up and make posting videos in the woodworking community so rewarding! I’m glad my video was useful to you!
I built my sled only two months ago for the GTS 10 XC. Like you mention in your review of the table saw video, the cross cut slider has some wiggle and so I wasn’t happy using that as a constant for the left slider on the eventual sled as it would not give a consistent parallel groove with the right even with the lock on. How I got round this was to completely remove the inbuilt sliding sled itself and actually use the full width as a runner so my two runners on my eventual sled would be significantly different in width. I purchased HDPE for the runners as these would not fluctuate like wood in different atmospheric temperatures. Also the grooves on this table saw taper down at an angle which differ from the typical right angle cast iron tables and so this results in the Sliders (HDPE) only making contact at one point on the angle of the afore mentioned tapering grooves, unlike the greater side to side 90 degree contact in most table saws. I hope I’m making sense but anyone who has this model should understand I hope, I may upload a video to make it a bit clearer but it won’t be yet.
Andreas, compliments on your Sled video. Clear and succinct. A million miles from the Americans who spend ten minutes telling you about their granny and what she likes for breakfast. Your style is inspiring and editing is good. Look forward to viewing your other material. P.S. just bought the GTS 10J with an 80 tooth blade.
May I suggest you consult William Ng for the 5 cut method. I have been able to get my sleds within a couple of thousandths of an inch along 20" with his method. The difference is that he uses instruments that are designed to measure small distances. The cost for the instruments is certainly not zero, but depending on your desire to get square to really be square, it is small. I spent 60 USD for mine. What I learned was well worth while. Wax or lube before finish is something that I learned the hard way as well. Videos are well put together and well spoken.
+Dudley Wilson Thanks for your suggestions and your feedback Dudley. It later turned out that it was not my method that was off but the square that I used (see video description). So I managed to get the sled square after all .
Vielen Dank for the great explanations. I have recently acquired a Bosch saw and need a crosscut sled. Your insights to improve the process will make my journey easier.
Very nice video, now I know what I will be making. I have the US version of that table saw, which doesn't have the.....built in glide platform. I wish they offered it, and the out feed extension.... But finding your video makes me think of sticking with my Bosch, or getting a factory new one and making a cross cut sled like yours. Very impressive.
Nice Build. I got myself a new Tablesaw, it`s a Powerplus and similar to yours. So i have to build a new Sled. I find it very useful, even if you want to cut small things. I wouldn`t spend too much time to get a 100% squareness. A thousands of Millimeters are in my Opinion not necessary in Woodworking. Greetings from the souther Side in BW.
Teacher as Learner. Excellent. Explaining how you problem solve differentiates your approach from the vast majority of other videos of this type. Attention to detail is a tricky balance to hold in YooChube, but from a teaching and learning perspective you have it right. Genau richtig!
Thanks for your kind words, Ian. That’s exactly what I want to show: that a teacher can be (and has to be) a learner as well. That it’s ok to make mistakes as long as your willing to learn from them. I'm glad that message came across to you and that you appreciate it!
Hi Andreas, Again, another great video with very valuable information and honest tests and results. When you say it takes time to adjust the fence, I think it's an understatement. As a complete rookie, it still takes time and I 've not been able to finish adjustment but I'll NOT give up :) Thanks again for the time you take to make these videos.
Hello Andreas, new subscriber here. I have same table saw. I have saved your tutorial on sled. I will let you know how it comes out in the next few weeks , kind of busy doing other jobs right now. I really enjoy your tutorials and " what I have learned" . Your lessons are very informative and easy to understand. Keep going, I'm learning from you. Thank you, Ken .
Andreas,.. Rather than take a full length shaving off the runners, if you look along the length of the sides of the runners ie the sides that run against the aluminium of the t slots, you will see that the timber shines where it rubs. This will not be along the entire length for sure. The trickis to only remove these shiney bits giving a more uniform runner. Hope this helps Regards Stuart
Nicely done video. Thanks for explaining the build so well. Nice looking sled. Nice sticker wall by the way! I can see mine on there. I think so awesome to be able to have my sticker on a fellow woodworkers wall across the world 👊
Excellent, I have the same GTS 10XC saw and I’ll be building a similar sled this weekend using your design. Thank you. It’s a very informative video, I enjoyed the presentation.
Great build Andreas! I kept yelling at the screen to tell you not to cut it down until you waxed it but I guess you couldn't hear me LOL. I love your explanation segment of your videos and what you learned keep up the good work Buddy.
Hi Andreas. I'm part way through making a my sled. I haven't attached the fences yet. I had exactly the same problem as you regarding friction. It was impossible to move the sled more than a third of the way across. I tried finding where it was binding by using a marker pen on the bearing areas on the slots and trying to run sled across to find any high spots and then sanded these off without much success. I purchased some woodworking wax today and applied that ... BINGO. The sled doesn't shoot across the saw but the difference is remarkable. Now having watched your video it appears friction is the culprit.
Great video Andreas, I think one of my favourite things about woodworking is that you never know everything, there aren't many jobs where you can learn new things everyday. Have you done a video reviewing the Bosch GTS 10XC?? I was thinking of buying one myself. All the best Dave
Thanks Dave, I’m glad you like it. I haven’t done a full review. But I've made on unpacking video (I did my videos in German back then): ruclips.net/video/mh13Nr6Iqwg/видео.html and one after getting it back after some initial trouble: ruclips.net/video/wF831hGi18I/видео.html To be honest, I can't recommend it without some restrictions. I had thought for that kind of money it would be a more precise tool but it isn’t. So if you can afford to spend some more you'd probably be better served with a Festool Precisio or a Mafell Erika. Otherwise, a DeWalt table saw might be even a bit cheaper while probably being similarly precise.
I love your videos. I was thinking watching your previous GTS 10 XC video, you may benefit for applying washers to the heads of the screws holding your riving knife in place. A small amount of thread locker may be helpful as well (just enought to add small friction to threads, not entire thread area). As you had mentioined it moved when you tighten the screws, washers, under the screw heads will greatly help reduce movement upon tightening, but will reduce rotating friction; hence thread locker. Thank you for your video. Nice job!
Thanks for your idea. It’s not the screws that move the riving knife it is the fact that the riving knife itself is a little bit bent so that when you release it after clamping it down it will move to its original bent position.
Merci pour ton travail ! La rainure du chariot intégré à la table de la scie est vraiment étroit et il est donc difficile d'y adapter les baguettes du chariot de coupe !! Ils sont pervers chez Bosch ! 😈😈😈 Je m'abonne à ta chaîne ! 🇨🇵👏👍
I agree with putting lubrication before, happened to me one time, and is how you said. I think it's possible to use the saw blade as guide to square the setup, gluing the reference fence after (?), but It's only theory because I can't check it, so I apology if it's a mistake. Sure someone have best and more experience over this topic. Good video learning explanation Sir
Thanks Daniel! I think using the 5-cut method is the best method *in theory* but as there are a lot of factors (one groove on the movable sled, which has some play, possibly inaccuracies in the grooves themselves, uneven width of the hand-planed runners) the errors can add up. I will work with this for now and see what experiences it brings.
Next time maybe also don't put the saw blade in the middle of the sled so you have one longer side. Fortunately I didn't have the problem with the offset riving knive but worse I tried to push the blade up through the uncut sled. Didnt work very well :-) Für das Einstellen habe ich eine Fühlerlehre verwendet. Damit ging es gut. Außerdem hatte ich vorher schon neue Löcher vorgebohrt, sodass ich nur noch schrauben musste.
Thanks for the suggestion. But what would be the advantage of having a longer and a shorter side? I didn’t have a feeler gauge (Fühlerlehre) so I checked how thick a piece of paper is. Probably not as accurate because the paper can be compressed, but a necessary compromise.
I have the same saw and I am about to make a sled myself so much appreciate your efforts. I have just bought a set of feeler gauges just for setting the fence square. I'm hoping it will help but I think you are right in that you must persevere until you get a satisfactory result. I am sure it seems quite a quick process when viewing other RUclips videos but they do not really talk about the time it took or how many times that had to tweet things? Keep up the good work.
Thanks. It later turned out that my results were not that bad but that the square I used for testing was actually off (see video description). So it seems doable, after all ;-)
Hi Andreas. Very nice video - just purchased this saw, so now I'm looking for some tips, tweeks and hacks for it :-) As mentioned before, your retrospect part is brilliant! ;-)
My 5 cuts test ended up being about 55 cuts, you are right, most videos do not portray how difficult this step is. Silber Gleit is available in New Zealand btw.
very nice Andreas MN work with what you got I think it turned out just fine and I agree Nick Fury's table saw sled does have quite a bit of expensive Hardware get the videos coming brother
I also have this table saw and had to address the dissimilar mitre slots. Additionally I had a problem where the sliding table was at a slight angle. I've since went down to 1 guide bar with no issues.
Apologies, I originally had the 2 guide bars on the bottom of the sled set up and operating correctly however I found that the shallower slot on the sliding table (left side) was at a slight angle so I removed the guide bar from that side of the sled and it now operates fine with just 1 guide bar (the right side). I have been meaning to remake my sled with HDPE or cutting board material for guides as in Scotland we have fairly severe humidity shifts and it has got stuck in the mitre slots in the past. Keep Making! Kris
Thanks Kris, that’s a good idea. On my saw, the slot on the built-in-sled is not at an angle but the sled itself has some play. So using only the right groove might be a good idea. I’ll keep this in mind for version 2 of the sled which will surely follow at some point.
Use UHHW stick-on tape on bottom of anything you want to slid easily. In this case the bottom of sled. It will glide easily. Use the five cut method to get the back fence perfectly square to blade. Videos on each is on Utube.
If you built your own cross-cut sled: How precisely square did you manage to make it? If I cut a piece of about 10 cm wide it’s alright, but upwards from that a deviation from square can be measured. I’d be interested in your feedback!
Great video! And I need to make my own. On my GTS 10 XC I find the table top to be not exactly plane. And the built in sled surface is a fraction of a millimeter higher than the rest of the table. Have you experienced this with your table, and has there been an issue regarding your sled resting on an imperfect plane? Like your sled plane not being square to the vertical saw blade?
Hi Andreas! 😊 Nice video, I like how you explain everything! I think this cross-cut-sled is much better to use than the original sliding sled at the saw?! I'm looking forward to your next video! Bye, Thomas 🖐🏼
Thanks Thomas! Yes, the original one is fine for small workpieces but has quite a lot of play. And you can’t attach a stop block for repeat cuts. On the new one, the workpiece can be guided much more securely and safely.
andreas you could try to glue with epoxy a thin shim of HDPE onto the edge of your sliding table and take out some of the slack, its slick enough not to affect the sliding action but i think it may improve it, just an idea . i would also suggest clamping a straight edge across the saw blade and riving knife when fixing it, i know theres not much space there, maybe a small g cramp would work ;0)
Good work mate, if you are able save your pennies for a cabinet saw, I've been down the same track as you & saved to take that step up, not picking on the Bosch but table saws are not there forte, cheers 👍👍👍
Thanks Dirk, I've gradually come to this conclusion myself. So I’ll have to live with it for a while but the idea of an upgrade certainly hovers somewhere at the back of my mind ;-) Thanks for your feedback!
PhilGroene hi mate, correct you are, however consider mobile base, you already may have a shop made workbench underneath the saw so space becomes irrelevant in that case, happy woodworking & only trying to share tips with you brother 👍👍👍
Thanks for a great video on cross-cut sled for the Bosch GTS 10 XC table saw! I just bought one of these, and now wonder if it would be possible to make a sled which is wider on the right side of the blade as it is possible to extend this side of the Bosch GTS 10 XC. So I am interested on your thoughts on building a sled that would take advantage of the table saw extension on the right side, which, fully extended will give you approximately 75 - 80 cm wide table on the right side of the blade?
When you get the front fence to within the thickness of a piece of paper that's plenty close enough. If you're out 1/64 of an inch over two or three feet that's hardly noticeable.
Thanks Andreas - like many of your other subscribers, I also have a GTS 10 XC and have encountered similar problems to yours. Do you have any plans for your cross cut sled (e.g. Sketch Up)? - I'm about to build mine and it would be very useful! Thanks :)
Hi Fergus, I don’t have any plans for the sled, unfortunately. The plywood base is about the size of the table. The two vertical pieces at the front and back are about 4 cm thick and about 8,5 cm high (make them about 2 cm higher than the blade at maximum cutting height). Make sure you check out the video description. The five-cut method worked fine, my wrong angles came from a square that wasn’t really square. Good luck with the build!
For beginners: Don't ever use silicone for lubricant where wood that you are going to finish or glue might come in contact. Silicone never comes off and it screws up any finish you might want to use.
No, you didn't mention silicone and Silber Gleit doesn't have silicone in it either but there are a lot of products that have silicone in them that are for lubricating and they are to be avoided for woodworking. Beginners don't know this which is why I mentioned beginners. I remember when a musician friend of mine didn't want to spend more money on guitar polish and used furniture spray 'wax' instead. I looked at the ingredients and it had silicone in it. When the instrument needed to be refinished after a repair (don't trust airlines with your musical instruments), the repair person had a terrible time because the silicone gets everywhere. Luckily I had told my friend to warn the repair person that he had used silicone so the repair person had carefully scraped the top of the finish off before he began.
Hi. Did I get it right? The grooves are 16.1mm and 16.8mm wide? The depth it’s readable, 7.5mm and 12.1mm. This I don’t understand Bosch, why not having standard 3/4” mitre gauges. That’s why mainly I didn’t decided yet between Bosch GTS 10 XC and Makita 2704. Any advise? Many thanks
I understand then, that the sled slides on the table of the Bosch cutter for all its base and not, only for the two sliding guides, right? thank you very much for the video, good job.
Hi Andreas, I have the same saw, and built the same kind of sled a year ago. I think my next sled will only have one runner, maybe I won't use wood, but some metal or plastic. Have you ever seen such a solution? Would be nice to hear some second thoughts... I like your videos, keep on your good work.
I saw some sleds with only one runner, I think Matthias Wandel made one. AllesOhneKabel made a sled with plastic runners and I think Nick Ferry used Rockler metal runners. One runner should certainly be enough and with this saw and the movable sled one on the right is probably better.
I have just got myself this saw, and was wondering if you have made a zero clearance insert. If so can you please give me a link to the video, Many thanks.
11:30 Hola, buen video pero te comento un par de cosas con respecto a las guías del trineo o sled. Cuando las canaletas de la mesa no están bien mecanizadas, y esto implica que mantengan un perfecto paralelismo en toda su longitud y ancho, ocurre que No es recomendable usar las dos. Yo recomiendo, por ejemplo para el caso de la GTS10 XC, usar la guia derecha de la mesa solamente. De lo contrario, para escuadrar el trineo o sled se torna en resultados engañosos o variables. Conclusión: Una sola guía bien hecha, es mejor que dos, y hace el trabajo esperado. Condición necesaria que se debe cumplir para utilizar 2 guías: 1)Paralelismo perfecto en toda la longitud de las canaletas de la mesa con una tolerancia máxima de 0,05 mm (5 centésimas de milímetro) por metro. Y: 2)Cada canaleta debe conservar en toda su longitud el mismo ancho.
@@holzhandwerk_ak Hola Andre, mirá, recien encontre esto por casualidad, está en Alemán y sin subtítulos, pero creo que se entiende igual. El muchacho le hizo una modificación a su GTS 10, le quedó perfecta: Link: ruclips.net/video/c96F2048gwg/видео.html
Great video, thank you I have the same saw and unfortunately the top is not flat, the sled sits a bit higher than the rest of the table. Did you ever run a straight edge on the top to try yours?
+Adrian Radu I've done that when I built the cross-cut sled (see infocard in the video) and it doesn't seem that it's uneven. Maybe you can take off the sled and see if you can flatten it's runners a little! I think they are made of plastic or aluminium.
Hello Andreas, thank you for sharing thuis video. Indeed in many videos it all looks very easy. After watching you’re video i do have a more realistic view how to make and the time it will cost me. Also watched you’re video where you give the review. I planned to buy this saw this week. I found it on a German site “ Alternate” . It costs 599 euro and I never saw this saw for such amount of money. For me it’s interesting to plan a trip to Germany to get me this saw. Are you familiar with this internet shop...? Have nice day and enjoy you’re woodworking. Hans
Thanks for your kind feedback, glad you found my videos useful. I’m not familiar with alternate but on amazon.de there are at least two offers in the same price range as well. amzn.to/2HLAZYm
I had found the site - I just don’t have any experience with it. And for larger tools I prefer buying from amazon because you can rely on their return policy.
Hi Andrea's. Love the videos. I also have the gts 10xc table saw, and I'm just wondering what blade you have replaced the stock blade with? Kind regards David
I bought this set by Freud: www.sautershop.de/kreissaegeblaetter-set-die-roten-250-set-3x250-30?c=15903 - The one with 40 teeth is an ideal universal blade: both for rip and cross cuts.
Who knows himself, that is not afraid of what they say about him. I wish everyone all the best and most beautiful love and respect each other nothing Our best like # 81
It took me a while to get it flat without wobbling and you’re right: It is not really brilliant. But mine works well enough so that I haven’t bothered making a new one yet.
Is it possible that you didnt get the sled to square up easily because the second rail is on the original sled, which in and of itself has some play on this machine? Very helpful video, Andreas.
@@holzhandwerk_ak The reason I am asking is because I made twice twin rails from different wood, all four were perfect width and slid well. But when I mounted them onto the sled, in both cases the sled was stuck... very disappointed. Now, I will try waxing like you suggested.
The Problem with the original sled is, that it is not adjusted acurate from factory side. Had the same problem Here, doing the runners twice, with the same result. After assembly i Had to rework them that much, that the bearing came to lose. 😭
Hallo Andreas, besten Dank für das Video, habe ich vieles gelernt und ich werde jetzt ein Schiebenschlitten auch bauen. Leider habe ich gerade festgestellt, dass bei meine Bosch GTS 10 XC, ich kann das Sägeblatt ganz nach unten fahren bist nicht mehr sichtbar wird, allerdings bleibt der Spaltkeil etwa 10 mm über die Tischplatte, auch wenn ich das schon zuerst bis zum Anschlag versenkt habe. Ist das normal? Ist das vielleicht nur verdreckt? Falls ja bedeutet das ich der Spaltkeil vorübergehend während der Konstruktion des Schiebeschlitten, abmontieren muss? Leider finde ich bei der Bosch-Beschreibung nichts über das Thema. Für jeden Tipp wäre ich sehr dankbar. Viele Grüße Julio
Hallo Julio, es freut mich zu hören, dass mein Video für Dich nützlich war. Bezüglich des Spaltkeils: Das könnte das Problem sein, das ich in diesem Video hier beschreibe: ruclips.net/video/ptimBvU0fQQ/видео.htmlm15s
Hallo Andreas, ich denke auch, dass bei mir das Problem sein wird,. Deine Erklärung ist sehr plausibel und dein Video exzellent. Ich werde morgen das versuchen. Damit habe ich etwas gelernt und für deine Unterstützung bedanke ich mich sehr. Viele Grüße aus dem Frankenland, Julio
Hallo Andreas, genau wie im Video erklärt, war gesammelte Spänen auch die Ursache bei mir. Nach eine gründliche Reinigung funktioniert alles wieder. Danke nochmal für dein Tipp. PS: Hast du inzwischen vielleicht Erfahrungen bezüglich „Holzarten und die passende TKS-Sägeblatt?“ Hauptsächlich arbeitet ich zur Zeit Multiplex- und OSD-Platten für die Werkstatt Einrichtung. Leider wird beim Bosch Online Katalog nicht viel über die Verwendung beschrieben. Ich habe zwei Modelle im Auge, bin ich nicht sicher, ob die Variante mit 54- oder mit 80- Zähnezahl (2 608 644 342 bzw. 2 608 644 343) besser für mein Fall angebracht wäre. VG Julio
Die 54 Zähe sind meines Erachtens ein gutes Allround-Blatt. Nicht gerade für Längsschnitte in langfaserigem Holz, aber ansonsten für fast alles zu gebrauchen.
Wenn der Streifen oben breiter ist, bedeutet das ja, dass der Winkel zwischen Anschlag und Sägeblatt *größer* ist als 90 Grad. Bei 1 mm wäre die Abweichung auf die Breite des geschnittenen Materials gerechnet ¼ mm (der durch die 4 geschnittenen Seiten auf 1 mm verstärkt wurde). Du würdest also - wie ich im Video - den Anschlag um ca. ¼ mm nach vorne schieben (ich habe das mit 2 Lagen Papier gemacht). Genauer geht es mit einer Fühlerlehre.
It’s an add-on to the rip fence, you can attach it with bolts if the workpiece is so narrow that it would be hard and dangerous to come with a push stick between the (higher) rip fence and the blade.
Andreas Kalt Thx for your answer. Do you mean this one www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/expert-for-wood-kreissageblatter-2592812-ocs-ac/ ?? This is a bit confiusing. According to Polish Bosch cataloge this one is designed for mitter saw. For table saw there are only 54 and 80 teeth options...just wandering what's the difference..
In principle, this is the one. You just have to make sure to choose the correct diameter of the blade and of the hole in the centre. In my example it says: 254 x 30 x 2.4 mm Z60T Which means: diameter of the blade: 254 mm diameter of the centre hole: 30 mm width of the cut: 2,4 mm 60 teeth On the page that YOU linked to, you can scroll down and choose the correct diameter.
sorry, my mistake. I wanted to link to specific one which is 2 608 642 530 www.bosch-professional.com/binary/ocsmedia/optimized/full/o155291v16_2608642530_bo_pro_p_f_1.jpg As you can see on package there is a mitter saw icon. On the other hand if you look at this one 2 608 644 342 www.bosch-pt.com/pl/pl/accocs/image/object/image/249496/249496.jpg/?maxwidth=660&maxheight=478&jpegquality=95 you can find a table saw icon. Both are diameter of the blade: 254 mm diameter of the centre hole: 30 mm This was a source of my confusion :) I assume that both will physically fit to the saw but just whander if there are some other causes of such categorization
Your viewers appreciate your candor. We can be patient with a process if we know it is difficult. Otherwise, we just feel inept. Thank you.
Thanks for your feedback - that’s exactly why I’m doing this: to show that sometimes it takes time and creates frustration to accomplish something.
Hi Andreas! Thanks for sharing this video! I had exactly the same problems with my Bosch GTS 10 XC saw when I build my crosscut sled. I had the feeling that the grooves in the table had not the same width in the frond and back. I ended up with the same result! Don't forget that this is a jobsite saw and this saws will never be so precise as professionel cabinet saws. I know you want to have it 100% but from my experience this is not possible. We are Germans and we always want it 110%! :-)
Thanks for your feedback, Holger. That’s good to hear. Because I tested and tested and thought I must be too dumb to do it. I also thought that the groove on the built-in sled might be the problem because that sled has a little bit of play as well so my self-made sled also has some play.
Anyway, for most tasks the grade of precision is fine.
Andreas Kalt i open the sled and re adjust the rail and manged to stop the play, it will help to get better accuracy
+Z3boy Thanks for this tip.
I live your vids very much but especially appreciate the 'What I Learned"" sections. Brilliant!
Thanks a lot for your kind words, Derrick
Thank you for being honest in your post project learning segment to explain the time spent to square up your table saw sled to your high German standards. As well. The safety block is not something we should overlook.
Thanks for your feedback.
I think it is important not to create false expectations for people who want to build one for themselves. However, it later turned out that the sled was quite square but that the combination square I used to check was off (see update in the video description).
Special thx for the last 6 minutes of the video.
In reality to make 1-2 mm adjustments can makes everyone crazy and takes more than an hour.
After the bike stand and the raised bed gardening boxes, this is the third time you build EXACTLY what I need :)
Thanks a lot and greetings from NRW.
Magic ;-) - I'm glad it’s useful and thanks for watching! Greetings from the south ;-)
I found it easier when I made mine to use only the one deep rebate on the saw table, as the other not so deep, on the sliding table, the table needs needs periodic adjustments for the sideways movement.
Additionally I got the ‘critical, fence 100 percent with a roofing square.
I did a rebate in the sled underneath to hold the runner in place. With a shallower depth to allow it not to plough up sawdust.
When I fixed the final critical fence with the roofing square, I used glue to hold the fence in position with my jointing plane on top, keeping the square in place the glue up was all done on the saw table to avoid movement.
Overall a good video, especially the block on the back to contain the spinning saw blade.
Thanks for your feedback! Appreciate it!
Thank you Andreas for this very well explained fabrication of a coss cut sled. I have in my home workshop this exact same Bosch table saw and it definitely needs something which is a bit smoother to slide than the existing original arrangement.
Your video style with "What I Learnt" is a model for every other channel! I also lubricate the table itself and find that gets more sticky because of resting stuff on the saw top than the sled itself. Good job, Andreas!
Thanks Richard, I’m glad you like it. To me, learning and improving (via RUclips, among other things) is such an important aspect of woodworking and the online woodworking community that I want to highlight it. I also want to show to my students (some of whom also watch my videos) that their teacher is also a learner and that they can use online media to learn stuff they can’t do yet.
About the lubricant: I don’t have any long-term experience yet, obviously. I always clean the table of the saw before putting the sled on but I'll have to see if this getting sticky becomes an issue.
Thanks for watching and for your comment, Richard!
Minwax think what is used for the slickness.
I used a product called “Silbergleit” which is from a German manufacturer. I don’t knoe what it is, it is indeed of a silvery colour and has the texture of a thick paste.
@@holzhandwerk_ak I think I have seen other English/US RUclipsrs use Beewax for the same effect. i could be wrong though.
Excellent video - I have the same saw for about 9 years now and made crosscut sled for it early on and it has been very useful. I now need to make a small sled with the capacity to make accurate cuts. As a result I will be using a lot of your tips in the construction of this new sled. Thank you very much for all the information you provided. Dayle.
Glad I could help!
Hi Andreas, a cool and educational video. Because I'm a real beginner and have a lot to learn, I have a lot of benefit from your lessons. Had I ever had such a teacher at school ...
Thanks for your wonderful feedback - it’s replies like yours that keep motivation up and make posting videos in the woodworking community so rewarding! I’m glad my video was useful to you!
I built my sled only two months ago for the GTS 10 XC. Like you mention in your review of the table saw video, the cross cut slider has some wiggle and so I wasn’t happy using that as a constant for the left slider on the eventual sled as it would not give a consistent parallel groove with the right even with the lock on. How I got round this was to completely remove the inbuilt sliding sled itself and actually use the full width as a runner so my two runners on my eventual sled would be significantly different in width. I purchased HDPE for the runners as these would not fluctuate like wood in different atmospheric temperatures. Also the grooves on this table saw taper down at an angle which differ from the typical right angle cast iron tables and so this results in the Sliders (HDPE) only making contact at one point on the angle of the afore mentioned tapering grooves, unlike the greater side to side 90 degree contact in most table saws. I hope I’m making sense but anyone who has this model should understand I hope, I may upload a video to make it a bit clearer but it won’t be yet.
Thanks for your input!
Andreas Kalt no probs, like your in-depth vids.
Hats off to you,never seen a more honest master woodworker. And I love that German passion for precision. Thank you Sir.
Thanks for your kind words!
besten dank für den ausführlichen bericht.toll geschnitten und gut dargestellt.
Danke!
Andreas, compliments on your Sled video. Clear and succinct. A million miles from the Americans who spend ten minutes telling you about their granny and what she likes for breakfast. Your style is inspiring and editing is good. Look forward to viewing your other material. P.S. just bought the GTS 10J with an 80 tooth blade.
Thanks for your feedback, Jack. I'm very glad to hear it! Enjoy your new tablesaw!
Got the exact same saw and will try to mimic your work. Thanks for taking the time for the video!
Glad to hear it. Thanks.
May I suggest you consult William Ng for the 5 cut method. I have been able to get my sleds within a couple of thousandths of an inch along 20" with his method. The difference is that he uses instruments that are designed to measure small distances. The cost for the instruments is certainly not zero, but depending on your desire to get square to really be square, it is small. I spent 60 USD for mine. What I learned was well worth while. Wax or lube before finish is something that I learned the hard way as well. Videos are well put together and well spoken.
+Dudley Wilson Thanks for your suggestions and your feedback Dudley. It later turned out that it was not my method that was off but the square that I used (see video description). So I managed to get the sled square after all .
Vielen Dank for the great explanations. I have recently acquired a Bosch saw and need a crosscut sled. Your insights to improve the process will make my journey easier.
Glad to hear it. Thanks!
Very nice video, now I know what I will be making. I have the US version of that table saw, which doesn't have the.....built in glide platform. I wish they offered it, and the out feed extension.... But finding your video makes me think of sticking with my Bosch, or getting a factory new one and making a cross cut sled like yours. Very impressive.
Nice Build. I got myself a new Tablesaw, it`s a Powerplus and similar to yours. So i have to build a new Sled. I find it very useful, even if you want to cut small things. I wouldn`t spend too much time to get a 100% squareness. A thousands of Millimeters are in my Opinion not necessary in Woodworking. Greetings from the souther Side in BW.
+U RTR thanks. About precision: it's about 1/5 mm off on the length of the fence. So it is noticeable, unfortunately.
Ok, that`s way too much.
Teacher as Learner. Excellent. Explaining how you problem solve differentiates your approach from the vast majority of other videos of this type. Attention to detail is a tricky balance to hold in YooChube, but from a teaching and learning perspective you have it right. Genau richtig!
Thanks for your kind words, Ian. That’s exactly what I want to show: that a teacher can be (and has to be) a learner as well. That it’s ok to make mistakes as long as your willing to learn from them. I'm glad that message came across to you and that you appreciate it!
Andreas, i agree richard, the what I learnt section is absolute gold. you got a nice style too
Thanks a lot!
Had this saw a while and yes you taught me a few tricks I didn't know about the saw , many thanks.
You’re welcome!
Hi Andreas,
Again, another great video with very valuable information and honest tests and results.
When you say it takes time to adjust the fence, I think it's an understatement. As a complete rookie, it still takes time and I 've not been able to finish adjustment but I'll NOT give up :)
Thanks again for the time you take to make these videos.
Thanks for your feedback, Olivier. I’m glad you found the video useful!
Extremely helpful and interesting. Thanks Andreas
Thanks. Glad it helped.
Hello Andreas, new subscriber here. I have same table saw. I have saved your tutorial on sled. I will let you know how it comes out in the next few weeks , kind of busy doing other jobs right now. I really enjoy your tutorials and " what I have learned" . Your lessons are very informative and easy to understand. Keep going, I'm learning from you. Thank you, Ken .
Hi Ken. Welcome to the channel. I’m glad to hear that you’re enjoying m videos. Good luck with the sled.
Andreas,.. Rather than take a full length shaving off the runners, if you look along the length of the sides of the runners ie the sides that run against the aluminium of the t slots, you will see that the timber shines where it rubs. This will not be along the entire length for sure. The trickis to only remove these shiney bits giving a more uniform runner. Hope this helps Regards Stuart
Thanks for the tip!
honest and useful video to every carpenter. I will build mine soon
Thanks. Good luck with your project!
Nicely done video. Thanks for explaining the build so well. Nice looking sled. Nice sticker wall by the way! I can see mine on there. I think so awesome to be able to have my sticker on a fellow woodworkers wall across the world 👊
Thanks Nate! Yes, having those stickers travel across the world as a visible sign of community is awesome!
Excellent, I have the same GTS 10XC saw and I’ll be building a similar sled this weekend using your design. Thank you. It’s a very informative video, I enjoyed the presentation.
Thanks very much for your feedback!
Great build Andreas! I kept yelling at the screen to tell you not to cut it down until you waxed it but I guess you couldn't hear me LOL. I love your explanation segment of your videos and what you learned keep up the good work Buddy.
Thanks Opa, well it seems I had to learn it the hard way. But in any case I’ve learned the lesson ;-)
Hi Andreas. I'm part way through making a my sled. I haven't attached the fences yet. I had exactly the same problem as you regarding friction. It was impossible to move the sled more than a third of the way across. I tried finding where it was binding by using a marker pen on the bearing areas on the slots and trying to run sled across to find any high spots and then sanded these off without much success. I purchased some woodworking wax today and applied that ... BINGO. The sled doesn't shoot across the saw but the difference is remarkable. Now having watched your video it appears friction is the culprit.
Thanks for your feedback
Great video Andreas, I think one of my favourite things about woodworking is that you never know everything, there aren't many jobs where you can learn new things everyday.
Have you done a video reviewing the Bosch GTS 10XC?? I was thinking of buying one myself.
All the best Dave
Thanks Dave, I’m glad you like it.
I haven’t done a full review. But I've made on unpacking video (I did my videos in German back then): ruclips.net/video/mh13Nr6Iqwg/видео.html and one after getting it back after some initial trouble: ruclips.net/video/wF831hGi18I/видео.html
To be honest, I can't recommend it without some restrictions. I had thought for that kind of money it would be a more precise tool but it isn’t. So if you can afford to spend some more you'd probably be better served with a Festool Precisio or a Mafell Erika. Otherwise, a DeWalt table saw might be even a bit cheaper while probably being similarly precise.
I love your videos. I was thinking watching your previous GTS 10 XC video, you may benefit for applying washers to the heads of the screws holding your riving knife in place. A small amount of thread locker may be helpful as well (just enought to add small friction to threads, not entire thread area). As you had mentioined it moved when you tighten the screws, washers, under the screw heads will greatly help reduce movement upon tightening, but will reduce rotating friction; hence thread locker. Thank you for your video. Nice job!
Thanks for your idea. It’s not the screws that move the riving knife it is the fact that the riving knife itself is a little bit bent so that when you release it after clamping it down it will move to its original bent position.
gut gebaut, dazu toll erklärt. einfach und vor allem auch sicher
+APPI Mobil Danke Appi!
Merci pour ton travail !
La rainure du chariot intégré à la table de la scie est vraiment étroit et il est donc difficile d'y adapter les baguettes du chariot de coupe !! Ils sont pervers chez Bosch ! 😈😈😈
Je m'abonne à ta chaîne ! 🇨🇵👏👍
Gut gebaut!
Danke!
I agree with putting lubrication before, happened to me one time, and is how you said.
I think it's possible to use the saw blade as guide to square the setup, gluing the reference fence after (?), but It's only theory because I can't check it, so I apology if it's a mistake. Sure someone have best and more experience over this topic.
Good video learning explanation Sir
Thanks Daniel! I think using the 5-cut method is the best method *in theory* but as there are a lot of factors (one groove on the movable sled, which has some play, possibly inaccuracies in the grooves themselves, uneven width of the hand-planed runners) the errors can add up. I will work with this for now and see what experiences it brings.
Good explanation. I only use one runner myself, to avoid any friction problems if the mitre slots aren't perfect
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD Thanks Mitch. Someone else has suggested this as well. So with the next version I might try it with one runner.
Next time maybe also don't put the saw blade in the middle of the sled so you have one longer side.
Fortunately I didn't have the problem with the offset riving knive but worse I tried to push the blade up through the uncut sled. Didnt work very well :-)
Für das Einstellen habe ich eine Fühlerlehre verwendet. Damit ging es gut. Außerdem hatte ich vorher schon neue Löcher vorgebohrt, sodass ich nur noch schrauben musste.
Thanks for the suggestion. But what would be the advantage of having a longer and a shorter side?
I didn’t have a feeler gauge (Fühlerlehre) so I checked how thick a piece of paper is. Probably not as accurate because the paper can be compressed, but a necessary compromise.
I have the same saw and I am about to make a sled myself so much appreciate your efforts. I have just bought a set of feeler gauges just for setting the fence square. I'm hoping it will help but I think you are right in that you must persevere until you get a satisfactory result. I am sure it seems quite a quick process when viewing other RUclips videos but they do not really talk about the time it took or how many times that had to tweet things? Keep up the good work.
Thanks. It later turned out that my results were not that bad but that the square I used for testing was actually off (see video description). So it seems doable, after all ;-)
Hi Andreas, hast eine schöne Werkstatt 👍🏻
Den Schiebeschlitten bau ich mir auch bald.
Danke für Dein Feedback, Ali. Es ist bei mir ständig im Einsatz und wirklich sehr praktisch!
Incredibly helpful. Thanks.
I’m glad to hear it. Thanks.
Thank you for the excellent explanation
You’re welcome - glad you liked it.
I thank you for your valuable information. I plan to apply it.
You’re welcome!
Hi Andreas.
Very nice video - just purchased this saw, so now I'm looking for some tips, tweeks and hacks for it :-)
As mentioned before, your retrospect part is brilliant! ;-)
Thanks very much Søren. I’m glad you found the video useful!
My 5 cuts test ended up being about 55 cuts, you are right, most videos do not portray how difficult this step is. Silber Gleit is available in New Zealand btw.
Thanks for your feedback!
very nice Andreas MN work with what you got I think it turned out just fine and I agree Nick Fury's table saw sled does have quite a bit of expensive Hardware get the videos coming brother
Thanks Joe!
Andreas Kalt always!! Ur videos are nice and detailed..👍👍
Nice job Andreas👍👍
Thanks Bob!
I also have this table saw and had to address the dissimilar mitre slots. Additionally I had a problem where the sliding table was at a slight angle. I've since went down to 1 guide bar with no issues.
Thanks. What do you mean by “went down to 1 guide bar”?
Apologies, I originally had the 2 guide bars on the bottom of the sled set up and operating correctly however I found that the shallower slot on the sliding table (left side) was at a slight angle so I removed the guide bar from that side of the sled and it now operates fine with just 1 guide bar (the right side).
I have been meaning to remake my sled with HDPE or cutting board material for guides as in Scotland we have fairly severe humidity shifts and it has got stuck in the mitre slots in the past.
Keep Making!
Kris
Thanks Kris, that’s a good idea.
On my saw, the slot on the built-in-sled is not at an angle but the sled itself has some play. So using only the right groove might be a good idea. I’ll keep this in mind for version 2 of the sled which will surely follow at some point.
Sehr saubere Arbeit!
Vielen Dank!
Use UHHW stick-on tape on bottom of anything you want to slid easily. In this case the bottom of sled. It will glide easily. Use the five cut method to get the back fence perfectly square to blade. Videos on each is on Utube.
Oh and by the way, excellent video!👍
Thank you!
nice video a lot of things I learn
If you built your own cross-cut sled: How precisely square did you manage to make it? If I cut a piece of about 10 cm wide it’s alright, but upwards from that a deviation from square can be measured. I’d be interested in your feedback!
Great video! And I need to make my own. On my GTS 10 XC I find the table top to be not exactly plane. And the built in sled surface is a fraction of a millimeter higher than the rest of the table. Have you experienced this with your table, and has there been an issue regarding your sled resting on an imperfect plane? Like your sled plane not being square to the vertical saw blade?
nice Andreas!great channel!👍
Thanks Marko!
Hi Andreas! 😊
Nice video, I like how you explain everything! I think this cross-cut-sled is much better to use than the original sliding sled at the saw?! I'm looking forward to your next video!
Bye, Thomas 🖐🏼
Thanks Thomas! Yes, the original one is fine for small workpieces but has quite a lot of play. And you can’t attach a stop block for repeat cuts. On the new one, the workpiece can be guided much more securely and safely.
andreas you could try to glue with epoxy a thin shim of HDPE onto the edge of your sliding table and take out some of the slack, its slick enough not to affect the sliding action but i think it may improve it, just an idea . i would also suggest clamping a straight edge across the saw blade and riving knife when fixing it, i know theres not much space there, maybe a small g cramp would work ;0)
Thanks for the tips.
what size thickness shim are you meaning Green Man?
Very good thank you
Good work mate, if you are able save your pennies for a cabinet saw, I've been down the same track as you & saved to take that step up, not picking on the Bosch but table saws are not there forte, cheers 👍👍👍
Thanks Dirk, I've gradually come to this conclusion myself. So I’ll have to live with it for a while but the idea of an upgrade certainly hovers somewhere at the back of my mind ;-) Thanks for your feedback!
This path is probably clear to most off us but another issue is shop space
PhilGroene hi mate, correct you are, however consider mobile base, you already may have a shop made workbench underneath the saw so space becomes irrelevant in that case, happy woodworking & only trying to share tips with you brother 👍👍👍
Thanks for a great video on cross-cut sled for the Bosch GTS 10 XC table saw! I just bought one of these, and now wonder if it would be possible to make a sled which is wider on the right side of the blade as it is possible to extend this side of the Bosch GTS 10 XC. So I am interested on your thoughts on building a sled that would take advantage of the table saw extension on the right side, which, fully extended will give you approximately 75 - 80 cm wide table on the right side of the blade?
That’s perfectly possible, in my opinion. Just make the sled wider to the right. Good luck.
@@holzhandwerk_ak Just don't put a lot of pressure on the right hand side of the sled as the fulcrum change will bind and wear the runners
Hi Andreas, where did you get the blade guard/dust extractor from? I've been looking for exactly the same thing for my saw for years.
When you get the front fence to within the thickness of a piece of paper that's plenty close enough. If you're out 1/64 of an inch over two or three feet that's hardly noticeable.
Thanks.
Thanks Andreas - like many of your other subscribers, I also have a GTS 10 XC and have encountered similar problems to yours. Do you have any plans for your cross cut sled (e.g. Sketch Up)? - I'm about to build mine and it would be very useful! Thanks :)
Hi Fergus, I don’t have any plans for the sled, unfortunately. The plywood base is about the size of the table. The two vertical pieces at the front and back are about 4 cm thick and about 8,5 cm high (make them about 2 cm higher than the blade at maximum cutting height).
Make sure you check out the video description. The five-cut method worked fine, my wrong angles came from a square that wasn’t really square. Good luck with the build!
Thanks Andreas, keep those videos coming, they're excellent :)
Thank you!
For beginners: Don't ever use silicone for lubricant where wood that you are going to finish or glue might come in contact. Silicone never comes off and it screws up any finish you might want to use.
Thanks for the tip - but did I use silicone anywhere or mention that you should use it?
No, you didn't mention silicone and Silber Gleit doesn't have silicone in it either but there are a lot of products that have silicone in them that are for lubricating and they are to be avoided for woodworking. Beginners don't know this which is why I mentioned beginners. I remember when a musician friend of mine didn't want to spend more money on guitar polish and used furniture spray 'wax' instead. I looked at the ingredients and it had silicone in it. When the instrument needed to be refinished after a repair (don't trust airlines with your musical instruments), the repair person had a terrible time because the silicone gets everywhere. Luckily I had told my friend to warn the repair person that he had used silicone so the repair person had carefully scraped the top of the finish off before he began.
Hi. Did I get it right? The grooves are 16.1mm and 16.8mm wide? The depth it’s readable, 7.5mm and 12.1mm. This I don’t understand Bosch, why not having standard 3/4” mitre gauges. That’s why mainly I didn’t decided yet between Bosch GTS 10 XC and Makita 2704. Any advise? Many thanks
I understand then, that the sled slides on the table of the Bosch cutter for all its base and not, only for the two sliding guides, right? thank you very much for the video, good job.
Yes the sled sides on its whole bottom surface.
@@holzhandwerk_ak Thank you very much for your answer. Greetings.
Hi Andreas, I have the same saw, and built the same kind of sled a year ago. I think my next sled will only have one runner, maybe I won't use wood, but some metal or plastic. Have you ever seen such a solution? Would be nice to hear some second thoughts... I like your videos, keep on your good work.
I saw some sleds with only one runner, I think Matthias Wandel made one. AllesOhneKabel made a sled with plastic runners and I think Nick Ferry used Rockler metal runners. One runner should certainly be enough and with this saw and the movable sled one on the right is probably better.
Helpfull Thanks
I’m glad to hear it!
Ich habe allgemein eine frage: kennt einer von eich eine Tischkreissäge mit 19mm führungsnuten?
Leider nicht, die Antwort würde mich aber auch interessieren.
ja dann könnte mann die sachen von incra einsetzen
I have just got myself this saw, and was wondering if you have made a zero clearance insert. If so can you please give me a link to the video, Many thanks.
I haven't made one so far.
Can you tell me the depth of runners? I find on AliExpress aloy 19mmx9.5mm track
Hi there!
Thanks for your reviews.
Does it cut easily across 2 inches hard maple chopping board?
With a good blade and slow speed, this should work.
11:30 Hola, buen video pero te comento un par de cosas con respecto a las guías del trineo o sled. Cuando las canaletas de la mesa no están bien mecanizadas, y esto implica que mantengan un perfecto paralelismo en toda su longitud y ancho, ocurre que No es recomendable usar las dos. Yo recomiendo, por ejemplo para el caso de la GTS10 XC, usar la guia derecha de la mesa solamente.
De lo contrario, para escuadrar el trineo o sled se torna en resultados engañosos o variables.
Conclusión: Una sola guía bien hecha, es mejor que dos, y hace el trabajo esperado.
Condición necesaria que se debe cumplir para utilizar 2 guías:
1)Paralelismo perfecto en toda la longitud de las canaletas de la mesa con una tolerancia máxima de 0,05 mm (5 centésimas de milímetro) por metro.
Y:
2)Cada canaleta debe conservar en toda su longitud el mismo ancho.
Gracias por los comentarios. Si volviera a construir el trineo, de hecho, solo usaría el surco sólido como guía.
@@holzhandwerk_ak Hola Andre, mirá, recien encontre esto por casualidad, está en Alemán y sin subtítulos, pero creo que se entiende igual. El muchacho le hizo una modificación a su GTS 10, le quedó perfecta:
Link: ruclips.net/video/c96F2048gwg/видео.html
Great video, thank you
I have the same saw and unfortunately the top is not flat, the sled sits a bit higher than the rest of the table. Did you ever run a straight edge on the top to try yours?
+Adrian Radu I've done that when I built the cross-cut sled (see infocard in the video) and it doesn't seem that it's uneven. Maybe you can take off the sled and see if you can flatten it's runners a little! I think they are made of plastic or aluminium.
That is exactly what I did, they are plastic indeed. Thank you
+Adrian Radu 👍
moin andreas. hab mal eine frage, wie breit sind die nuten von der bosch? wenn es geht bitte auf´s 1/10 mm genau. danke
Moin. 16,1 mm, im Video kannst Du bei 2:15 meine Zeichnung im Entwurfbuch sehen, da steht jeweils auch die Tiefe drauf (Vollbild und HD nötig).
oh ja, danke für die info andreas
Have you ever considered making zero clearance insert for the saw?
I have but haven’t got round to it so far. Why are you asking?
Hello Andreas, thank you for sharing thuis video. Indeed in many videos it all looks very easy. After watching you’re video i do have a more realistic view how to make and the time it will cost me. Also watched you’re video where you give the review. I planned to buy this saw this week.
I found it on a German site “ Alternate” . It costs 599 euro and I never saw this saw for such amount of money. For me it’s interesting to plan a trip to Germany to get me this saw. Are you familiar with this internet shop...? Have nice day and enjoy you’re woodworking. Hans
Thanks for your kind feedback, glad you found my videos useful. I’m not familiar with alternate but on amazon.de there are at least two offers in the same price range as well. amzn.to/2HLAZYm
Andreas Kalt , I found it on this site.... www.alternate.de/Bosch-Professional/Tischkreiss%C3%A4ge-GTS-10-XC-Professional/html/product/1109857.
I had found the site - I just don’t have any experience with it. And for larger tools I prefer buying from amazon because you can rely on their return policy.
I had a closer look - looks trustworthy. They have physical stores, among other things.
Andreas, is this tablesaw generally a good and accurate machine? and the mitre runner is not of a stanard size is it?
It is fairly accurate, Paul. The sled has too much play (hence the self-made cross-cut-sled). The runner ist not standard size.
Hi Andrea's. Love the videos. I also have the gts 10xc table saw, and I'm just wondering what blade you have replaced the stock blade with?
Kind regards
David
I bought this set by Freud: www.sautershop.de/kreissaegeblaetter-set-die-roten-250-set-3x250-30?c=15903 - The one with 40 teeth is an ideal universal blade: both for rip and cross cuts.
@@holzhandwerk_ak thanks very much for your reply. That's very helpful.
All the best.
Hey Andreas. Great vid. Can i ask what were the dimensions of your sled? Do you still think it's the ideal size for your use?
It’s 80 cm wide by 52 deep. If I make a new one, I’ll make it a bit wider.
Who knows himself, that is not afraid of what they say about him. I wish everyone all the best and most beautiful love and respect each other nothing Our best like # 81
Thank you for this video! What is the brand of the rip fence bolt-on extension?
That extension comes with the GTS 10 XC table saw.
Andreas Kalt thanks for the response.
Dein Video von dem Schiebetisch ist toll gebaut den brauche ich auch noch in meiner Werkstatt. Mein Englisch macht nur etwas Probleme.
Danke. Meine neueren Videos haben meist deutsche Untertitel.
I am asking because I am not very satisfied with the one that came with the saw and wondered what if any issues you may have experienced with it.
It took me a while to get it flat without wobbling and you’re right: It is not really brilliant. But mine works well enough so that I haven’t bothered making a new one yet.
Is it possible that you didnt get the sled to square up easily because the second rail is on the original sled, which in and of itself has some play on this machine? Very helpful video, Andreas.
That’s a good suggestion. However, it turned out that the square that I used at first was not accurate, which complicated things a lot.
@@holzhandwerk_ak The reason I am asking is because I made twice twin rails from different wood, all four were perfect width and slid well. But when I mounted them onto the sled, in both cases the sled was stuck... very disappointed. Now, I will try waxing like you suggested.
The Problem with the original sled is, that it is not adjusted acurate from factory side. Had the same problem Here, doing the runners twice, with the same result. After assembly i Had to rework them that much, that the bearing came to lose. 😭
Hallo Andreas, besten Dank für das Video, habe ich vieles gelernt und ich werde jetzt ein Schiebenschlitten auch bauen. Leider habe ich gerade festgestellt, dass bei meine Bosch GTS 10 XC, ich kann das Sägeblatt ganz nach unten fahren bist nicht mehr sichtbar wird, allerdings bleibt der Spaltkeil etwa 10 mm über die Tischplatte, auch wenn ich das schon zuerst bis zum Anschlag versenkt habe.
Ist das normal? Ist das vielleicht nur verdreckt? Falls ja bedeutet das ich der Spaltkeil vorübergehend während der Konstruktion des Schiebeschlitten, abmontieren muss?
Leider finde ich bei der Bosch-Beschreibung nichts über das Thema.
Für jeden Tipp wäre ich sehr dankbar. Viele Grüße Julio
Hallo Julio, es freut mich zu hören, dass mein Video für Dich nützlich war. Bezüglich des Spaltkeils: Das könnte das Problem sein, das ich in diesem Video hier beschreibe: ruclips.net/video/ptimBvU0fQQ/видео.htmlm15s
Hallo Andreas, ich denke auch, dass bei mir das Problem sein wird,. Deine Erklärung ist sehr plausibel und dein Video exzellent. Ich werde morgen das versuchen. Damit habe ich etwas gelernt und für deine Unterstützung bedanke ich mich sehr. Viele Grüße aus dem Frankenland, Julio
Hallo Andreas,
genau wie im Video erklärt, war gesammelte Spänen auch die Ursache bei mir.
Nach eine gründliche Reinigung funktioniert alles wieder. Danke nochmal für dein Tipp.
PS: Hast du inzwischen vielleicht Erfahrungen bezüglich „Holzarten und die passende TKS-Sägeblatt?“
Hauptsächlich arbeitet ich zur Zeit Multiplex- und OSD-Platten für die Werkstatt Einrichtung.
Leider wird beim Bosch Online Katalog nicht viel über die Verwendung beschrieben.
Ich habe zwei Modelle im Auge, bin ich nicht sicher, ob die Variante mit 54- oder mit 80- Zähnezahl (2 608 644 342 bzw. 2 608 644 343) besser für mein Fall angebracht wäre. VG Julio
Die 54 Zähe sind meines Erachtens ein gutes Allround-Blatt. Nicht gerade für Längsschnitte in langfaserigem Holz, aber ansonsten für fast alles zu gebrauchen.
Wie gleichst du aus? Wenn z.B. beim Messen das Stück oben 1mm breiter ist als unten.
Wenn der Streifen oben breiter ist, bedeutet das ja, dass der Winkel zwischen Anschlag und Sägeblatt *größer* ist als 90 Grad. Bei 1 mm wäre die Abweichung auf die Breite des geschnittenen Materials gerechnet ¼ mm (der durch die 4 geschnittenen Seiten auf 1 mm verstärkt wurde). Du würdest also - wie ich im Video - den Anschlag um ca. ¼ mm nach vorne schieben (ich habe das mit 2 Lagen Papier gemacht). Genauer geht es mit einer Fühlerlehre.
what is that fence extension? i've never seen that before.
It’s an add-on to the rip fence, you can attach it with bolts if the workpiece is so narrow that it would be hard and dangerous to come with a push stick between the (higher) rip fence and the blade.
Honest Andreas!
Hi, what model of bosch blade do you use for cross cuts? Is it 254mm 54T ? Thx.
It’s this one: Expert for Wood 254 x 30 x 2.4 mm Z60T - 60 Teeth, but 54 will work just fine as well.
Andreas Kalt Thx for your answer.
Do you mean this one www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/expert-for-wood-kreissageblatter-2592812-ocs-ac/ ??
This is a bit confiusing. According to Polish Bosch cataloge this one is designed for mitter saw. For table saw there are only 54 and 80 teeth options...just wandering what's the difference..
In principle, this is the one. You just have to make sure to choose the correct diameter of the blade and of the hole in the centre. In my example it says:
254 x 30 x 2.4 mm Z60T
Which means:
diameter of the blade: 254 mm
diameter of the centre hole: 30 mm
width of the cut: 2,4 mm
60 teeth
On the page that YOU linked to, you can scroll down and choose the correct diameter.
sorry, my mistake. I wanted to link to specific one which is 2 608 642 530
www.bosch-professional.com/binary/ocsmedia/optimized/full/o155291v16_2608642530_bo_pro_p_f_1.jpg
As you can see on package there is a mitter saw icon.
On the other hand if you look at this one 2 608 644 342
www.bosch-pt.com/pl/pl/accocs/image/object/image/249496/249496.jpg/?maxwidth=660&maxheight=478&jpegquality=95
you can find a table saw icon.
Both are
diameter of the blade: 254 mm
diameter of the centre hole: 30 mm
This was a source of my confusion :)
I assume that both will physically fit to the saw but just whander if there are some other causes of such categorization
The first one is the one I have. I don’t think it makes a difference if it is used in a mitre saw or a table saw.